The International Day of Italian Cuisines IDIC was born as a reaction against the systematic Read More
WHAT IDIC STANDS FOR IN 2018
19 March 1930 is the day of the birth of Gualtiero Marchesi. IDIC 2018 edition wants to Read More
IDIC 2018 10th EDITION – THE NEXT 10 YEARS
IDIC 2018 A TRIBUTE TO GUALTIERO MARCHESI
The IDIC International Day of Italian Cuisines was born 11 years ago out of the need to protect authentic traditional Italian dishes from counterfeiting all around the world.
Carbonara, risotto alla Milanese, Tagliatelle al Ragu Bolognese, Tiramisu, Pesto alla Genovese, have been some of the dishes that thousands of chefs have celebrated around the world on the 17th of January of each year.
Everything was set to celebrate the IDIC 2018 in the same date of every year but, then, on December of 26, last year the great Chef Gualtiero Marchesi sadly passed away. Marchesi has been without any doubt the founder of contemporary Italian cuisine, besides the fact that he was the first ever Italian Chef to be awarded the 3 Michelin Stars.
It was at that point that we decided to make an exception in the history of the IDIC and pay a due tribute to Marchesi. After ten editions we decided to celebrate not a dish of the tradition but one of the great Master. In accordance with the Fondazione Marchesi we opted for one of the last creation of Marchesi, called “Insieme Armonico” ”Together”, in English. A dish that combines tradition with the refinement that always accompanied the gastronomic inventions of the Chef. “Together” mixes rice and pasta in a traditional and creative rendition. It was the recipe opening the recently launched book “Amatricianae” a homage to Amatrice the Lazio town destroyed in the August 24 earthquake home of one of the most symbolic traditional Italian dishes: amatriciana. Marchesi described his dish with these words: “Together there are rice and pasta. Rice whisked with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, rolled out on a dish as a white veil, as a pictorial pattern. Pasta, amatriciana rigatoni – on top, as the rice is a dressing, high in plasticity in the flamboyant colors of the tomato. Surface and volume, white and red, horizontal and vertical. Together, in fact. And in harmony: in form and taste”
Exceptionally we changed also the date of the IDIC: NOT on the 17 of January as in the past 10 years. But on March 19, the birthday of Gualtiero Marchesi
“TOGETHER” “INSIEME ARMONICO” THE RECIPE
“Together there are rice and pasta. Rice whisked with Parmigiano cheese, rolled out on a dish as a white veil, as a pictorial pattern. Pasta, amatriciana rigatoni – on top, as the rice is a dressing, high in plasticity in the flamboyant colors of the tomato. Surface and volume, white and red, horizontal and vertical. Together, in fact. And in harmony: in form and taste”
For the risotto
– 240 g Carnaroli rice
– 20 g chopped onion
– 10 dl dry white wine
– 50 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
– 2 lt white vegetable stock
– 70 g butter
Sweat the onion with butter, add rice and toast it. Pour in white wine, let it evaporate, then pour in the boiling stock. Add salt and cook the rice over high heat, adding stock little by little.
Remove the rice from the heat when it is still soupy and season with salt. Stir in cold butter; cut into cubes, and generous grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Adjust flavor if necessary.
For the rigatoni
– 180 g rigatoni
– 100 g onion
– 200 g guanciale (cured pork cheek)
– 250 g tomatoes
– extra virgin olive oil
– salt and pepper
Blanch the guanciale in boiling water for a few minutes (keep aside a thin slice that will be dried in the oven). Drain the guanciale from the water and let it cool. Cut it in 2 cm cubes, brown it with oil and drain it on kitchen paper.
Fry the onion, brown it, then add the tomato and cook stirring. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water; drain al dente, pour it into the frying pan and flavor it into the sauce.
Finishing and presentation
Spread the rice on a large plate. Position 7 rigatoni in the center of the plate tending to verticality. Garnish with the slice of crunchy guanciale.
GUALTIERO MARCHESI Gualtiero Marchesi was born in Milan in 1930. He begun his professional training at the KulmHotel in Saint Moritz and then moved on to the Ecole Hôteliere in Switzerland (1948-1950). Back in Italy, he started working in the family restaurant in the Mercato hotel in Milan, creating an avantgarde cuisine, which respected traditional as well as classical cooking. Eager to improve his knowledge, he then went to work in some of the best restaurants in France such as Ledoyen in Paris, Le Chapeau Rouge in Dijon and the Troisgros in Roanne. This experience improved his knowledge of French and international cuisine, which has continued to broaden and improve in subsequent years.
In 1977, he opened his own restaurant in via Bonvesin de la Riva in Milan.
It was awarded a Michelin star in its first year and two stars in 1978. The food critics Gault and Millau, in an interview published in the Times, named Gualtiero Marchesi as one of the best chefs in the world. His name is on the pages of the most famous food guides and in 1985 the Michelin Guide book paid homage to Gualtiero Marchesi by making him the first non-Frenchman to be awarded three stars. Gualtiero Marchesi is also a founding-member of Euro-Toques International, the European Community of chefs, founded under the auspices of the EU.
In 1986 he was appointed Cavaliere or “Knight” of the Republic. The same year he received the Ambrogino d’Oro prize, the highest acclamation from the city of Milan. In 1989 he became the first person in Italy to receive the International Personnalité de l’année prize for gastronomy.
Confirmation of his international role came in 1990, when he was honoured by the French Minister of Culture, Jack Lang, with the title Chevalier dans l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres.
In 1991 he was appointed Commendatore by the President of Italy, Francesco Cossiga.
In September 1993 he moved his Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi to a villa in Erbusco in the heart of the Franciacorta region.
In 1999, the region of Lombardy awarded him the Longobardo d’Oro Seal. This award is given to the most important and famous Lombard people in Italy and all over the world. In June 2000 he was awarded the famous Paul Harris Prize by the Rotary Club.
In 2002 the International Academy of Gastronomy awarded Gualtiero Marchesi the Grand Prix Mémoire et Gratitude. In January 2004 he will be bringing to life a much desired project with the launch of ALMA, the International School for Italian Cuisine.
On May 2008 Gualtiero Marchesi opened a new restaurant in Milan calling it Il Marchesino in Teatro alla Scala building. It is a triumphal return in Milan which represents the beginning of his career.
On January 2009 during Madrid Fusion he received The Golden Apron with most important chefs who over the last decade have not only been acclaimed and respected by both general public but have changed our whole approach to cuisine. In Madrid, on February 2009, the weekly Metropoli gave to him the International Award for the career, set up for the first year.
On 19th March, for his 80th birthday, Gualtiero Marchesi create “Fondazione Gualtiero Marchesi” for teaching arts through the taste.
From April to July 2010, in Milan at Castello Sforzesco, the exposition “Gualtiero Marchesi and the Great Italian Cuisine“ took place. The Exposition “Gualtiero Marchesi and the Great Italian Cuisine” has been presented at the Italian Embassy of Bruxelles and from the 26th until 29th of October at European Parliament.
On 10th October 2012 Parma University confers to him a degree “Honoris Causa” in Gastronomic Science (Scienze Gastronomiche).
At December 2012 “Centro Studi Grande Milano” awarded him the prize “Le Grandi Guglie” normally conferred each year to people who have have contribute to the growing of Milan.
During 2013, on 14th October, the guide “les Grandes Tables du Monde” gives him a special prize during a gala in his honour.
On 18 June 2014 Gualtiero Marchesi inaugurates in via Bonvesin de la Riva 5, his Academy.
This address is really significant for him because is where his career has begun.
In 2015 was nominated “Chef Expo Ambassador” of Expo Milano 2015 and he opens “Ristorante Marchesi” inside his “Marchesino” in Piazza Scala in Milan.
WHAT IDIC STANDS FOR IN 2018
- Cooking is a craft or better still, a service. It’s a ministerium.
- The white uniform possesses the essential characteristics of its function: honesty, cleanliness, and respect.
- The cook’s law is the recipe that he or she is executing, bearing in mind that every good execution implies a certain amount of interpretation, finely calibrated, neither too much or too little, introduced with reverent discretion. One step up, comes the “composer”.
- Depending on a cook’s degree of knowledge and experience, he or she is one of three possible types: the executor, the interpreter, and the composer. To reach this level, a cook must first master the technique, and then gain experience in all the relevant areas: appetizers, first courses, meat, fish, and pastry, even if they then decide to specialize in just one.
- Contributing greatly to the cook’s experience is a knowledge of place: the water, the soil, the air that conserve a memory of that place, conferring substance and taste to its fruits and animals, as well as an acquaintance with inhabitants and climate, with which both must inevitably interact.
- The study of other countries’ food cultures can help a cook broaden his or her knowledge of the culinary arts, and the approach to recipes, conjuring a different appearance and employing different ingredients.
- A cook’s skill rests on two pillars: knowledge of raw materials, and how to handle them, respecting their nature.
- Technical solutions and virtuosity are only possible in the context of knowledge of technique and raw materials, both in the conception and in the execution phases. Technique means the appropriate, controlled, and non-destructive use of the most suitable utensils for the task in hand, without destroying the raw materials in question.
- For each dish, the cook must know precisely what to do: cooking times, and methods, the exact temperature and, where necessary, the resting periods, since these are also important, much like a pause or a silence in music. Final presentation depends largely on the choice of the most suitable serving dish.
- One of the tasks that does credit to a good cook, is spreading and increasing knowledge and awareness of the culture of good food. He or she can do this by teaching good eating habits via the food that is served, as well as by training the young recruits, and handing over the reins to those who deserve it, introducing them to the culture of food which, in its finest manifestation, is a truly conscious experience, as well as being a striving for constant improvement, that is then adapted to a real-world context.
And finally, a reminder: Creating is not copying. Which doesn’t mean a pursuit of the new or the “never seen before” for its own sake. We can find innovation in the known just as easily as in the unknown. The key is that it achieves the truth.
Truth in motion becomes art
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|Il Fiorile||Massimo||Martina||Borghetto di Borbera||Italy|
|Italian Restaurant HK Football Club||Massimo||Santovito||Hong Kong||Hong Kong|
|L'Arte in Cucina||Gianluca||Casini||Düsseldorf||Germany|
|Caffè Vivo||Emanuele||Lattanzi||Newcastle upon Tyne||United Kingdom|
|La Prometida||Maria||Zago||Buenos Aires||Argentina|
|La Prometida||Martin||Tufro||Buenos Aires||Argentina|